Monday, June 18, 2012

CCCP or Russia: It all depends on where you stand


The trajectory I sketched from Russia of 1995 to Russia of 2012 might (assuming the Mayans were wrong) suggest that this country is on a course to become a peer to the U.S. in 10 or 15 years, but there are lots of clues that Russia might instead be collapsing back into another Soviet Union. I truly don't know what will happen, but here's what I see when walking around the city.

In addition to the Victory Parade participant carrying Stalin'sportrait, there are lots of apparently fond memories of the Soviet Union (CCCP).

You've got a Soviet Cafe:


And a bar named after the city's Soviet name, Bar Leningrad:



Just around the corner from the Chajka is the CCCP Bar and Cafe:



And grocery store shelves are lined with kitschy Soviet ice cream. I didn't buy any, so I can't say if they followed the old procedure of substituting pig fat for milk to ensure extra creaminess.



One of the more popular channels on TV is dedicated to reminiscing about the Soviet period. On "Nostalgia" they interview singers, writers, and other entertainers from back in the day, and replay old TV shows and show Soviet movies.

Here is their clever banner:



And here is the timeline from their website. I like how The Beatles figure prominently.



It's not as though the positive attitude toward the Soviet Union is attached to just one generation. The older generation, who were already adults when the Wall came down really suffered during the Yeltsin years. They just didn't have the skills or youth to succeed in all the chaos of a young Russia. So they yearn for the stability and equality of the Soviet period when no one had anything.

The younger generation, on the other hand, has no personal memory of the Soviet Union, but have lived their entire lives in a country with a military in shambles, watching their parents struggle in the new economy, and daily being told how weak Russia is compared to the civilized West. This generation has (with the help of Putin) conjured up the Soviet Union as a powerful country, feared by all, and capable of anything. They want that again.

This nostalgia would have been unthinkable under Yeltsin. His rule was all about mobsters running the economy. But Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin, the old KGB officer, has much more organized plans.

Somehow everyone skips over the oppression and want of the Soviet regime; Stalin's killing of 80 million of his own people through war, purges, and concentration camps; the numbing doldrums of Brezhnev . . . 

I've talked to some Russians about this renaissance of the Soviet period and the concensus seems to be a philosophical you-take-the-good;you-take-the-bad / facts-of-life attitude. Even though the Soviet period wasn't perfect, they are trying to reclaim the positive parts of the U.S.S.R. Since none of those original words -- Union, Soviet, Socialist, or Republic -- seem to be on their way back, maybe it's best that they are starting with the ice cream.